More on my road trip earlier this month to Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine…
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My final night in New England was in Bennington, Vermont, in the southwest corner of the state. The next morning, I sucked it up and headed south on a succession of interstate highways, down through New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and West Virginia.
At the end of the day, I stopped in Winchester, Virginia, near the north entrance to Shenandoah National Park. I would have an early start on the Skyline Drive.
The next morning was clear and nicely brisk. No one was on duty at the Shenandoah entrance station. A sign read “Pay when you leave the Park.”
I had the road to myself. I turned off the radio, rolled down the windows, and headed out.
Two minutes later, a young adult black bear emerged from the greenery on the right side of the road about 20 yards ahead. I stopped immediately and grabbed my camera from the passenger seat.
The bear — which turned out to be a female, as you’ll understand directly — glanced at me, then ambled across the road.
When she reached the grassy strip on left shoulder, she stopped and looked toward me again.
I eased forward, camera at the ready, until I reached her. At that point, my car was paused in the right lane. The bear was 10 feet away on the left side of the road.
Although she showed no aggression, I was apprehensive. Could I romp on the gas and get away if she rushed me? I decided I could.
The bear stood stoically on the grass, looking at me. I took a burst of photos that I knew would be keepers.
Why she remained there instead of continuing on her way was puzzling. She seemed in no hurry to leave.
But I had my photos, and I figured it was best not to prolong the encounter. I tossed my camera onto the passenger seat and slowly drove on.
Mere seconds later, I watched in my rear-view mirror as a bear cub emerged from the woods and scampered across the road to join mom.
Clever girl. She had been waiting for me to leave, so it would be safe for the youngster to cross the road.
No cars were in sight in ether direction. In fact, I hadn’t seen another car since I entered the park. Undoubtedly, driving backward on the Skyline Drive is illegal, but I put the car in reverse anyway, and I began inching back toward the mama bear and her cub. The two of them sat quietly on the grass at the edge of the road, watching my approach.
This time, for reasons I still don’t understand, I grabbed my cell phone instead of my Nikon. I raised the phone and took three photos.
Two were hopeless blurs. This was the third.
Thinking back on the episode, it’s obvious why I could never be a professional photographer. Having taken several shots, I became concerned that I was hassling the poor bears, and I felt compelled to go away and leave them alone.
A real photographer would have continued shooting with both cameras, firing off hundreds of shots using a variety of angles and settings.
But, no, I drove away, leaving the bears posing perfectly for God-know-how-many-more awesome photos that I do not have.
What a jerk move.
A few miles south, I arrived at the Dickey Ridge Visitor Center. It was 9:00 AM, and two female employees were just opening for the day.
I went inside, looked at a map, browsed around the gift shop, and purchased a Shenandoah refrigerator magnet featuring a bear cub.
“Betty, I saw a mother bear and two cubs on the way here yesterday,” one employee said. “About a mile south.”
“Oh, the cubs are so CUTE!” the other woman gushed. Apparently, everyone loves Shenandoah’s black bears.
When I told them I had bear photos taken 10 minutes earlier, they were thrilled. They fawned* at length over the mother-and-cub photo on my phone.
The bears, the ladies told me, are very mellow. They keep to themselves, but they’re acclimated to cars and people. The mother bears have learned how to deal with cars, and their cubs know to stay hidden until the mom gives the okay to come forward.
Bears, as you may know, are smart creatures, probably on a level with dogs and pigs. Some studies say they have longer memories and are more devoted and attentive as parents.
Judging from her size, the mother bear I encountered was young. The cub probably was her first.
But she already understands people and the park roads, and she knows how to care for her baby. That knowledge will stay with her every season she has cubs.
Clever, indeed.
* Fawned. That’s a pun.
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