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Last week in Athens, I had lunch at the popular soul food restaurant Weaver D’s Delicious Fine Foods.

You may know Weaver D’s for the motto, “Automatic For the People,” immortalized by R.E.M. as the name of its 8th album.

I knew about the restaurant, but oddly, had never been there. Somehow, over the years, I never got around to it.

The place was opened in 1986 by the gregarious and entertaining Dexter Weaver. The name “Weaver D” comes from roll call back in his Army days.

In the early years, Weaver D’s was a regular hangout for the members of R.E.M. and other Athens rock groups before they got famous.

Later, Michael Stipe said he wanted to name the album “Automatic for the People” because he had heard Dexter shout it so often.

By the time the album was made, Stipe had gone from struggling college student to prosperous rock star. He showed up at the restaurant one day with cash and a lawyer and sealed the deal.

The R.E.M. connection made the restaurant famous, but there is more to Weaver D’s than hype. In 2007, the James Beard Foundation recognized it as one of America’s Classics — a series of restaurants recognized for serving high quality food that reflects the character of the community.

I knew about all that, so I figured my lunch would be worthwhile. I wasn’t disappointed.

When I walked in, the man himself was there, taking orders, dishing up the food, chatting up the customers. His photos (and President Obama’s) are all over the walls. He has a cookbook for sale for $10.

I ordered a classic Weaver D’s meal: fried chicken, two sides (collard greens and squash casserole), buttermilk cornbread muffin, and, of course, iced tea.

Everything was superb — perfectly prepared.

As I was finishing, Dexter strolled over to my table and asked, “How was it, friend?”

I said, “Well, the collards were perfect, and the squash was as good as my grandmother’s, and the fried chicken was as good as any I’ve ever had.”

He grinned and said, “Automatic, my man.”

This video came out when Weaver D’s won the Beard Award.